The Gamo 611006875554 Swarm Whisper Air Rifle is a multi-shot, break barrel air rifle. It features Gamo’s Whisper Fusion technology, which reduces noise levels, and a 10-shot magazine that allows for quick and easy follow-up shots. The rifle has a synthetic stock with a rubber recoil pad and a scope rail for mounting a scope. It also has a manual safety and a single-stage trigger. It has a .22 caliber and an Inert Gas Technology (IGT) power plant which uses a gas piston instead of a spring for increased accuracy and power. It has a velocity of up to 975 feet per second (fps) with PBA Platinum ammo. It’s a perfect rifle for small game hunting and plinking.
Product reviewers generally have positive things to say about the Gamo 611006875554 Swarm Whisper Air Rifle. Many praise its accuracy and power, noting that it is capable of taking down small game and pests with ease. The 10-shot magazine is also seen as a major plus, allowing for quick follow-up shots.
The Whisper Fusion technology is also well received, with reviewers noting that the rifle is quieter than other air rifles in its class. The synthetic stock is also seen as a plus, as it is durable and easy to maintain.
Some reviewers have noted that the trigger pull can be heavy, and that the rifle can be difficult to cock for younger or weaker shooters. However, these are minor complaints in comparison to the overall positive feedback on the rifle’s performance.
Many reviewers report that the Gamo 611006875554 Swarm Whisper Air Rifle is good for hunting small game, such as squirrels, rabbits, and birds. Some reviewers also note that it is powerful enough to take down larger pests, such as raccoons and coyotes. The rifle’s accuracy, power, and 10-shot magazine make it well-suited for taking down small game at close to medium ranges. The Whisper Fusion technology which reduces noise levels, is also a plus for hunting as it reduces the chance of scaring off game. However, It may not be the best choice for big game hunting, as the caliber and power of the rifle may not be sufficient for taking down larger animals.
Overall, the Gamo 611006875554 Swarm Whisper Air Rifle is seen as a high-quality, powerful, and accurate air rifle that is well suited for small game hunting, target shooting, and pest control.
The Hatsan BT Big Bore Carnivore QE SL air rifle is a high-powered, precharged pneumatic (PCP) air rifle that is designed for hunting and target shooting. It is available in various calibers including .357, .45, and .50, and features a Quattro trigger system for a smooth and consistent trigger pull. It also has a QuietEnergy barrel that reduces noise, and an integrated air pressure gauge. The rifle has a synthetic stock with an adjustable comb and a built-in pressure relief device for added safety. It also has an anti-double pellet feed mechanism and a manual safety. The rifle is designed for powerful and accurate performance, and is suitable for both experienced and novice shooters.
So what do product reviewers say they like about it?
Product reviewers generally have positive things to say about the Hatsan BT Big Bore Carnivore QE SL air rifle. Some of the things they like include:
-Powerful performance: Many reviewers comment on the rifle’s impressive power, with some saying it can take down large game with ease.
-Quiet operation: The QuietEnergy barrel is praised for reducing noise and making the rifle more suitable for backyard shooting.
-Accurate: Reviewers appreciate the rifle’s ability to shoot accurately at long ranges, making it suitable for target shooting and hunting.
-Comfortable and adjustable stock: the synthetic stock is praised for being comfortable and adjustable, making it easy to get a good fit for different shooters.
-Reliability: Reviewers report that the rifle is reliable and easy to use, with minimal maintenance required.
-Bang for the buck: Many reviewers think that the rifle is a great value for the price, especially considering its powerful performance and accuracy.
-Safety feature: Many reviewers appreciate the built-in pressure relief device, and the anti-double pellet feed mechanism that increases safety during the shooting.
What do they not like?
Product reviewers generally have positive things to say about the Hatsan BT Big Bore Carnivore QE SL air rifle, but there are a few things that some reviewers do not like. Some of these include:
-Weight: Some reviewers find the rifle to be heavy, which can make it difficult to hold steady for extended periods of time.
-Recoil: Some reviewers report that the rifle has a significant amount of recoil, which can make it uncomfortable to shoot.
-Trigger: Some reviewers have criticized the trigger, saying it can be heavy and difficult to adjust.
-Barrel: Some reviewers have reported that the barrel is not very consistent in terms of accuracy and performance, which can affect the overall accuracy of the rifle.
-Ammo: due to its powerful caliber, some reviewers have reported that it can be difficult to find suitable ammunition for the rifle.
-Cost: for some reviewers, the rifle is considered to be a bit pricey and not affordable for some.
It is worth noting that these are not common complaints and that the majority of reviewers have had a positive experience with the Hatsan BT Big Bore Carnivore QE SL air rifle.
Any other interesting facts or things to note about the Hatsan BT Big Bore?
-The Hatsan BT Big Bore Carnivore QE SL air rifle is available in a variety of calibers, including .357, .45, and .50. This allows shooters to choose the caliber that best suits their needs and preferences.
-The rifle features a Quattro trigger system, which is designed to provide a smooth and consistent trigger pull. This can help improve accuracy and make the rifle easier to shoot.
-The rifle also features an integrated air pressure gauge, which allows the shooter to easily check the air pressure in the rifle’s reservoir. This can help ensure that the rifle is always operating at optimal pressure.
-The rifle also has an anti-double pellet feed mechanism, which prevents more than one pellet from entering the barrel at a time. This can help improve accuracy and reduce the risk of jamming.
-The rifle has a built-in pressure relief device, which automatically releases air from the rifle if the pressure becomes too high. This can help prevent damage to the rifle and improve safety.
-The rifle is suitable for both experienced and novice shooters, it’s easy to use, and requires minimal maintenance.
Conclusion:
-In general, the Hatsan BT Big Bore Carnivore QE SL is a powerful and accurate rifle that is suitable for hunting and target shooting. With its adjustable stock, pressure gauge, and integrated silencer, it is a great choice for any shooter looking for a versatile and reliable air rifle.
It is ironic that many hunters learn how to hunt by taking squirrels with air rifles but then feel the need to “grow up” and pass them over for conventional firearms. The truth is that squirrel hunting with an air rifle is not only one of the safest ways to hunt squirrels, but arguably one of the most rewarding and inexpensive ways too.
Whether you are just beginning to hunt squirrels with an air rifle, or have several seasons of experience under your belt, there is always something that can be learned. In this article, we cover some basic considerations for picking the right gear, and then discuss some of the common squirrel species the hunter is likely to encounter.
Never forget to check and comply with all applicable laws and regulations before you set off on any hunt!
Air rifle types for squirrel hunting
While there are many types of air rifles that can be used for hunting small game, what is needed is in a good squirrel hunting model, aside from overall quality and accuracy, is power and range. As we’ve explained before in our general hunting article, for furred game such as this, ideally you will want a rifle with at least 12 foot-pounds of energy (“FPE”) at the muzzle in a rifle bore of .20 or .22 caliber, or larger. A .177 caliber rifle can be used too, but I personally would not recommend using one for much beyond backyard/pest eradication given this smaller caliber’s more limited ability to deliver kinetic energy downrange.
The legendary RWS 34 makes an outstanding squirrel hunting air rifle
While 12 FPE is a good minimum target, having more power than 12 FPE is highly recommended for the more serious hunter, or for those who simply want to engage their quarry at longer ranges (30+ yards), since pellet trajectory (in a .22 cal.) is likely fall off pretty quickly if you are working with borderline power. Of course, if you are merely looking to reclaim your backyard birdfeeder or take shots within 15 yards or so, this doesn’t apply to you and 12 FPE is easily sufficient.
Certain high FPE multi-pump rifles, like the classic Benjamin 392 in the .22 caliber, for example, can certainly be used to hunt squirrels as was astutely pointed out by one of our readers below ; however, spring piston, gas piston and precharged pneumatic (PCP) air rifles are preferable for a dedicated squirrel/small mammal hunting rifle in my opinion. While individual models vary, each of these power plants has the capacity to generate impressive muzzle energy and is suitable to power heavier .22 caliber pellets. Stay away from C02-powered types; as a general rule they just do not have enough power to put down squirrels humanely, especially at typical hunting distances.
Noise is another consideration, but an optional one. Squirrels are easily spooked in the field and the loud cracking of a spring-piston rifle can make getting second or third shots off. Generally speaking, gas-pistons are usually (but not always) quieter, and PCP rifles, such as the Benjamin Marauder, tend to be the quietest, although this again is not always the case. Nevertheless, noise is not a critical factor in our opinion, since even relatively quiet guns can send squirrels high-tailing it regardless.
Do I need a scope?
While you may be fine with open sights if you are looking to rid your attic or garden of send a message to some pest squirrels; for the hunter, a good air rifle scope is absolutely key to get the most out of the sport. In addition, we strongly suggest choosing a variable scope to maximize accuracy at a variety of ranges, such as 4x-12x model. As usual, make sure it’s mounted properly and that you take the time to properly sight the scope before you take aim at any animal.
Choosing the right pellets
From left to right, flat, round nose, hollow point and pointed pellets. Top row .22, bottom .177 caliber.There are many types of pellets available and there is no one perfect pellet for all rifles and situations, and the best pellet is always the one that delivers the most reliable results for your particular rifle and quarry. However, assuming you are using a sufficiently-powered rifle, you will most likely want to stick with a round nose or pointed standard lead pellet for any hunting in the field. At close ranges for pest-eradication, however, a wadcutter can be extremely effective. There is virtually no reason to bother with lightweight alloys in typical hunting scenarios; if anything, especially with a high-powered rifle, you want to use a heavier pellet to maximize range and conserve FPE delivered to the target, both of which are improved when using heavier pellets. We suggest you that always experiment with several pellets using targets and pick the one that delivers the most reliable accuracy.
If you are determined to use a .177 caliber rifle, you will want to use the heaviest pellet that you can find that also gives you reliable groups.
Techniques and strategies
There is no one-size-fits-all strategy for hunting squirrels, but there are some basic considerations that are good to keep in mind.
Pre-hunting reconnaissance
This cannot be overstated. In my opinion, unless you are fortunate enough to have squirrels literally crawling around in your backyard, doing your “homework” on the ground is what separates successful squirrel hunters from those who struggle to get approach their limit.
A stand of oak promises good hunting.Before you try to shoot any squirrel, take time to walk prospective hunting grounds. In addition to noting obvious squirrel activity, look for large hardwood trees, especially beech and oak, and the presence of mast (early season), nuts, cone piles and nests. Forest edges and watercourses are often good choices too for recon as squirrels will often move along these areas in search of food or when patrolling territories. If snow is on the ground, tracking squirrels can be very effective; at least to determine which trees or denning areas squirrels are using and are likely to return to. Do not shoot at or otherwise molest squirrels in their dens, however; this unethical and may be illegal in your state.
Also keep in mind the types of habitats in your area in light of the habitat preferences of the types of squirrels you are after. As discussed more below, for example, Eastern grey squirrels are most at home in relatively dense woodlands with a well-developed understory; whereas fox squirrels like smaller, much more open woodlands with a relatively sparse or barren understory, along with forest edge habitats.
Sit or stalk?
Stealthy movement can pay offAlthough not mutually exclusive, you will often hear of two squirrel hunting approaches: the stalkers and the sitters. All of this must be taken with a grain of salt, however. Of course, setting yourself down in a blind and remaining motionless can certainly present excellent shooting opportunities, this implies that you have done extensive recon beforehand and have placed yourself in a prime location that this is close of a food, nest or some routinely used travel corridor. Fantastic! Your will probably bag your limit if you can only maintain your composure.
But that is not the only way to bag a squirrel. In habitats that do not have concentrated food or den resources, or for those who simply like to move and stalk a bit more (myself included), simply being patient and moving stealthily in the forest can prove just as effective. Typically, I recommend moving as silently as possible and then stopping for periods of time to listen for activity and opportunities before continuing to move. No, it’s not rocket science folks, but the key is to be as quiet and observant as possible. Moist ground is particularly good for sneaking up on squirrels. Regardless, even a spooked squirrel is likely to venture out again in 20 to 30 minutes if you sit tight and motionless. In addition, I strongly suggest using a good pair of binoculars; picking out squirrels from a distance, especially high in trees, without them can be very challenging even with perfect eyesight.
The early bird catches the squirrel
First light is prime time for most squirrels
While you may find just about any type of squirrel active at just about any time of the day (except for midday during summer, which you should avoid), the consensus seems to be that squirrels are more active in the morning, except for particularly frigid mornings. This is particularly true in my experience for Eastern gray squirrels, which seem to be most active in the wee hours of the morning, at first light.
Next to early morning, the last hours of daylight around sunset can also be a good bet to find squirrels moving about.
A pocket full of stones
Some die hard squirrel hunter swear by this: (1) pick up some small rocks and put them in your pocket before you set off for your hunt; (2) wait until that squirrel that you just missed invariably tries to hide behind that big tree in front of you; (3) throw a stone behind the tree where he’s hiding; and (4) be ready to shoot!
Try to blend in
While hunt you can certainly get away with hunting for squirrels in just about any type of clothes, those who are serious understand the benefit of moving through the forest in full camouflage. Squirrels are extremely observant and have a knack for bolting when they see a human face or bright clothing, even from a considerable distance. Nevertheless, this all assumes that there are no otherwise applicable laws which you must comply with (e.g., wearing a blaze orange vest for safety).
Consider a squirrel call
Although this is not something that I have personally used, some hunters report good success with squirrel calls or any objects (one hunter suggested rubbing two quarters together) that can produce a gnawing or chirping sound that might grab a squirrel’s attention. This technique can be particularly effective to bring a spooked squirrel out of hiding, or draw squirrels closer when using the sit and wait method.
Should I use a dog?
Black Mouth Cur, a breed used for squirrel huntingA good treeing dog can definitely speed things up as far as locating squirrels. The Black Mouth Cur shown to the left, for example, is one dog breed that has been used for this purpose.
However, is a dog really necessary? Keep in mind that, once the squirrel has been treed, depending on the circumstances, you may not get a great shot off on that animal (who is now thoroughly spooked) at least one that is within the effective range of your typical air rifle. Unless you are using a conventional firearm, I say leave “skipper” home.
Common North American squirrels
There are many squirrel species in North America; the following are some of the most common. As with any type of hunting, it pays to learn as much as you can about the natural history of your quarry, so keep some of these facts in mind if any of these species occur in your region.
Eastern grey squirrel (Sciurus carolinensis)
Eastern gray squirrel, enjoying a seedThis a 17 to 20-inch-long, grayish-brown, highly arboreal (tree-dwelling) species native to the eastern half of North America that ranges into Canada. It is an extremely hardy and adaptable species that has also taken hold, regionally, in the western US and has successfully become established throughout Europe, South Africa, and several island nations thanks to a series of introductions that took place around the turn of the century. This has wreaked havoc on some of the natives in these foreign lands unfortunately. For example, in Britain, the species is considered an invasive pest that threatens to displace Britain’s native red squirrel (Sciurus vulgaris).
The Eastern gray has been so successful in spreading in part because it is a highly prolific species that can reproduce up to twice per year (between December – February and May – June) depending on food availability and produce anywhere from one to a eight young per litter. This squirrel mates in winter and prefers to nest in trees, where it often constructs rather large and disorganized nests that are placed high up on branches or within hollowed cavities, including abandoned woodpecker holes. Attics, exterior wall spaces and other cozy spots in and around human dwellings also make fine dens. Males and females become sexually mature at around one year of age, and can live up to 20 years in captivity. Wild squirrels are likely to perish much sooner due to predation and other environmental pressures.
Typical Eastern gray squirrel habitat consists of mature, dense stands of deciduous trees like oak, beech, maples and elms that support a well-developed understory. However, as their rapid expansion suggests, they are quick to adapt to other types of biotypes as was all residential areas, city parks and urban environments so long as their basic shelter and food requirements are met.
Eastern gray squirrel looking to “cache” a nut
Eastern gray squirrels ordinarily forage on things like seeds, nuts, berries, mushrooms and tree bark, but will happily avail themselves of backyard birdfeeders (a favorite) and gardens, where they may help themselves to your fruit and vegetables. If getting desperate, they can also turn toward more meaty fare and prey on other small rodents (including each other), insects and even birds and bird eggs. As with many squirrel species, the eastern gray is a “scatter-hoarder”; like it sounds, this means that they deposit food among numerous cache locations that are spread out across a relatively large area. They spend much of their time engaging in this activity and it is estimated that they create several thousand caches per season. Amazingly, they use a “spatial memory” that uses landmarks to reliably brings them within inches of their cache locations, at which point they can detect food by smell. Fortunately for the trees, however, the squirrels sometimes forget a cache or two and the nuts germinate.
Hunting Eastern gray squirrels can be done year round, local laws permitting, since they do not hibernate. Technically a “crepuscular” species, S. carolinensis, is most active in the very early morning and during the last hours of sunset; but they can theoretically be found out and about at any time of the day, except during midday during the hot summer months.
For the air rifle hunter, the eastern grey presents a myriad of challenges. Owing to their strongly arboreal nature and highly unusual ability to rapidly descend trees head first (thanks to hind feet that can rotate), they are quick to flee upwards and may force a clumsy hunter to become lost in a never-ending game of hide-behind-the-tree. Eastern grey squirrels that are found in relatively pristine woodland habitats are particularly easy to spook, and therefore make the most “sporting” quarry in my opinion. A hunter must be patient in these circumstances and will often find the best shooting opportunities when squirrels are either foraging or caching food on the forest floor in the early morning.
Western gray squirrel (Sciurus griseus)
While similar in size and shape to the Eastern grey, the Western gray has a gunmetal gray dorsum and pure white underbelly. The Western gray is far shyer than its Eastern counterpart and will generally bolt up the nearest tree and chirp loudly at even the slightest disturbance. This species ranges along the west coast from northern Baja California up to Washington and the Sierra Nevada range in Central California in forests up to 2,000 meters in elevation.
They too nest in trees lined with twigs, grass and shredded bark. Breeding normally occurs between December and June and one to five young are born per litter. Food preferences are also similar, and this squirrel spends considerable time foraging for and “scatter-hoarding” pine nuts, acorns, berries, mushrooms, berries, buds and insects to a lesser extent.
Unlike its eastern cousin, the Western gray has struggled to maintain populations in various parts of its range and has been extirpated in several areas. Where it does occur, it is often limited to mountains and foothill habitats. It is believed that the introduction of the comparatively more aggressive fox squirrel (Sciurus niger) in southern California may have contributed to the Western grey’s retreat from the lower-lying areas.
American red squirrel (Tamaiasciurus hudsonicus)
Sometimes referred to as simply red squirrels or pine squirrels, this a medium-sized tree squirrel that is common throughout coniferous woodlands in North America, Canada, and coastal British Columbia. They are very common species throughout the Rocky Mountains. The closely related Douglas squirrel, or chickaree (Tamiasciurus douglasii), is very similar to the red squirrel in almost all respects but is limited to coniferous habitats in the Cascade Mountains and western parts of the Pacific Northwest.
Female red squirrels can breed at one year of age, but will sometimes wait another year or two before reproducing. They produce litters of one to five young, typically, once per year, but a second litter is possible in good years. Conversely, breeding may skipped during some years when resources are scarce. Nests are traditionally constructed in trees.
The red squirrel eats seeds primarily, especially pine seeds, which may alone comprise half of its diet in some areas. Of course, they are also known to forage for a wide variety of other things, like mushrooms, spruce buds, tree leaves, berries, flowers, bird eggs and even snowshoe hare young.
This is a very territorial species and, as such, it is imperative for juvenile red squirrels to obtain a territory before their first winter in order to see their next. Even so, life is tough in the wild and it is estimated that only about 22 percent of young red squirrels survive their first year, after which they can expect to live, on average, about 2.5 years.
California ground squirrel (Otospermophilus beecheyi)
This is a common, medium-sized ground-dwelling squirrel that can found throughout the western U.S. from Oregon down to the Baja California Penninsula.
Unlike the species mentioned above, the California ground squirrel constructs burrows on the ground that they dig themselves. They feed mostly on grains, but are happy to feed on just about anything, including ornamental trees, fruits and vegetables found in backyard gardens.
This species is notable for easily becoming tame around humans, and have become a pest in many parks along its range. Finding burrows is a good way to locate these animals, since most ground squirrels prefer to remain within 50 meters of their burrows. The California ground squirrel is vulnerable to the same types of predators as tree-dwelling types, such as hawks, fox and bobcat; however, living on the ground puts them in rattlesnake country, and they have developed a suite of anti-predation behaviors and adaptations as a result, including being somewhat resistant to rattlesnake venom and engaging in sand-kicking and tail waiving behaviors that serve to distract and intimidate some of their serpentine attackers.
Fox squirrel (Sciurus niger)
The largest tree squirrel in North America, fox squirrels may weigh up to 2.2 pounds with body lengths of up to 28 inches (not including the tail). Color varies depending on region and subspecies, but in most cases these squirrels are brownish-grey on their dorsum and brownish-orange underneath.
This species can be found across much of the eastern U.S. (except some New England states and Pennsylvania) and northward up into Southern Canada; it ranges westward into Texas, Colorado and the Dakotas. They have also been introduced in Washington, Idaho, Oregon, California and New Mexico. Their preferred habitat consists of small woodland tracks with a fairly open canopy that have a relatively open to almost barren understory, but like most of the species here, they can easily adapt to residential areas and even densely-populated urban areas.
Fox squirrels utilize tree dens and leaf nests; leaf nests are built in forks of deciduous trees roughly 30 feet above ground; whereas tree dens are typically constructed in tree cavities and are preferred during the winter months. They can create their own nest cavities, but will gladly accept ones created for them by native woodpeckers and flickers, for example.
Females ordinarily will produce two litters per year, although young females may breed only once per year. Three young are born per litter, on average, but this can vary depending of food availability and other environmental factors.
Fox squirrels are the “big game” of North American squirrels: they are powerful climbers and jumpers, and adults are reported to easily leap 15 between trees or free-fall more than twenty feet to the ground or next branch. Given their large size and agility, adult squirrels are preyed upon by only large mammalian and avian predators (e.g., fox, bobcat, red-tailed hawk and great horned owl). Humans are by far their biggest predator, however, and fox squirrels have been hunted extensively in regions where they are not protected leading to over harvesting and population declines in many areas.
Have any squirrel hunting stories to share?
That’s about it as far as we’re concerned. Do you have any tips or squirrel hunting experiences to share our readers? We are looking for experienced guest contributors and will feature well-written and researched submissions that are over 300 words in length– we look forward to hearing from you!
The common “brown” or “sewer” rat (Rattus norvegicus) is arguably the most despised and successful vertebrate pest of all time.
While the species hails from northern China (the origin of the misnomer “Norway” rat is still unclear) the brown rat is literally everywhere today – most likely within a hundred meters of where you are right now in fact…that is unless you happen to live in Antarctica.
The remarkable intelligence and complex social behavior of the brown rat, coupled with its amazing reproduction rates and unusual adaptability to varying climates and food sources certainly poised it for world dominance.
However, it is this rat’s uncanny ability to thrive in and around human infrastructure which propelled it out of Asia, throughout Europe and eventually into the Americas within a short few hundred years.
Yet, as interesting as this species’ biology may be, the brown rat has left of legacy of destruction in its wake. It is not only an unparalleled scourge on native flora, fauna and vegetation communities, but also poses a threat to human welfare worldwide by consuming/tainting our food and carrying numerous diseases and pathogens.
One way to control the brown rat around the home is through responsible airgun use. But before we get to that, you should learn a little more about what makes these animals “tick” – as it will likely make you more successful at defeating such a clever and adaptable foe.
Identification & Superficial Characteristics
Although it’s covered in a nondescript dark brown/grey pelt with a slightly paler underside, the hairless/slightly scaly tail and relatively large proportions (up to ¾ of a pound and 10 inches in length, without the tail) readily distinguishes the brown rat from squirrels and native mice. Moreover, this species is considerably larger and more robust (up to 2 times more massive) than the next most common member of the genus, the black rat (Rattus rattus), which is a more arboreal species that has a proportionally longer tail, more pointed snout and overall slimmer build among other distinguishing features (see figure below).
General Biology
Social Behavior
Despite being portrayed as the German cockroach of the rodent family, the brown rat is a highly intelligent, social mammal that operates within complex social hierarchies that closely resemble that of wild dogs. There are clear levels of dominance within groups, which are established/reinforced through play fighting, boxing, grooming and huddling behaviors. Individual rats tend to be territorial and are prone to violence when resources become limited. Those rats ranking lowest on the social ladder are typically among the first to die off in such situations. Nevertheless, family groups are strong and members have a rich repertoire of audible and ultrasonic vocalizations and chirps they use to communicate moods and warn each other of danger.
Reproductive Biology
As you can guess from their pest status, the brown rat is incredibly fecund.
Unlike many other mammals, female rats have no breeding “season” per se, and can essentially breed year-round if food/shelter is not limiting. Moreover, the brown rat has a very short gestation period (~21 days) and can produce up to six litters per year consisting of up to 14 pups at a time. Add to that a very short five-week period before the young reach sexual maturity and can start reproducing on their own, and it becomes clear why the brown rat is the very definition of an “invasive” species.
Diet & Foraging Behavior
To match the brown rat’s remarkable fertility is a willingness to eat just about anything.
Brown rat foraging among kelp beds during low tide.
Indeed, while the species is most known for consuming various types of grains/cereals, populations of rats can adjust their behavior to exploit local food sources. For example, one West Virginia population was reported to learn how to catch and eat small fish from a nearby fish hatchery (brown rats are excellent swimmers); while other reports confirm that they can dive for mollusks, hunt and eat songbirds/waterfowl and, perhaps most disturbing, even grow so bold as to attack human infants.
However, despite such a decidedly eclectic palate, one well- known researcher and the founder of the Animal Behavior society concluded after a 1964 study that the brown rat ultimately preferred more mundane, familiar fare, such as mac & cheese, scrambled eggs and cooked corn! It is no wonder why they have taken so well to our garbage.
Preferred Habitats & Home Range
The brown rat will happily utilize drainage pipes.
The brown rat is a nocturnal/crepuscular burrowing species that, soil permitting, is prone to constructing complicated networks of tunnels, often with multiple levels and entrances. These tunnels and chambers, often situated along/adjacent/beneath a man-made or natural structures, are believed to provide a more stable thermal environment, easy food storage and a convenient refuge from predators and other above-ground threats.
Interestingly, virtually all of the digging required for these tunnels is done by females and young males; older males rarely contribute. This drive to excavate of course doesn’t mean that the brown rat is above using man-made tunnels, such as sewers, drainage ditches and other human excavations.
In addition to their affinity for natural/artificial burrows and tunnels, the brown rat appears to gravitate towards moisture. And in areas away from human development, the species is often found along the banks of river systems. This is presumably why they have taken so readily to municipal sewer/waste water systems in metropolitan areas.
Studies suggest that rats will roam in search of food if necessary but are true “homebodies” at heart. In fact, where a stable supply of food is close by, rats may never venture further than 20 meters from the nest.
Origin and Current Distribution
Red shading represents current distribution of brown rat (Rattus norvegicus).
Believed to originate from the high plains of northern China, the brown rat is now common to every continent save Antarctica. Reportedly, this movement from its native lands was launched during the Middle Ages, where human migratory routes presumably facilitated their spread by providing both food and shelter. Yet, regardless what promoted their movement, by around 1750 it is clear that the brown rat was already a regular feature throughout much of industrial Europe and was beginning its “hostile take over” of North America.
Such conquests were not without interspecific drama, however. The black rat that was native to many of these areas may have resisted the advance initially, but likely quickly gave way to its much larger, more aggressive congener. This displacement was reportedly hastened also due to the brown rat’s comparatively greater adaptability to various foods and weather extremes, as well as its ability to burrow in/around human dwellings.
There is no consensus as far as how many brown rats presently occur worldwide; however, some estimates put the populations of brown rats in the UK alone at roughly 1.3 rats for each person alive!
Impacts and Threats
Displacement of Native Species
As far as threats to native species go, the brown rat is one of the most destructive invasive vertebrate species of all time, and may singularly responsible for causing or threatening the extinction of more plants and animal species worldwide than any other, next to mankind.
While the extent and nature of such impacts is well beyond the scope of this article, the brown rat threatens native flora and fauna in two general ways.
Brown rats wiped out the Atlantic puffin on Ailsa Craig Isle (UK).
The first and most obvious manner is by predating on plants/animals directly. Brown rats can and will make a meal of just about any plant and animal they can catch and overpower. Nesting birds, small snakes, lizards and other terrestrial organisms are particularly easy targets for the brown rat, as are their eggs and young. And the threat is not limited to land; their strong swimming/diving ability also makes them a scourge upon intertidal and other shallow water aquatic organisms as well. This extreme opportunism and voracity has decimated countless species worldwide, with particularly obvious impacts to more vulnerable island populations. From devouring rare aloe plants on an island off the coast of Madagascar, to feasting on the eggs of the endangered Hawksbill turtles on the shores of Brazil, the brown rat is a common theme among reports of species declines/extinctions everywhere.
Hawksbill nests are often plundered by brown rats.
In addition, the brown rat also contributes to biodiversity loss indirectly by eroding habitats. By foraging on seed material and new tree/shrub starts, the brown rat can prevent forests/vegetation communities from recruiting new plants to replace dead and dying members, thereby permanently transforming/degrading those environments. Forests can give way to grasslands, and rare and specialized shrub communities can cede to near monotypic stands of noxious weeds. Yet, however they are altered, the point is that these communities can be changed to the point where they are no longer suitable for the wide assemblage of plants/animals that had previously evolved to live in these communities and nowhere else. The extent of these impacts is inherently vastly harder to quantify but potentially much more devastating to biodiversity overall.
Agricultural Losses
The United States Fish and Wildlife Service estimates that rats are responsible for destroying roughly 20% of all agricultural products worldwide. This is likely due to consuming food material directly, as well rendering much more food unsanitary as a result of contamination of stores from rat feces.
Public Health Issues & Property Damage
The brown rat is a known vector for many diseases and pathogens ranging from viral hemorrhagic fever and toxoplasmosis to trichinosis and even bubonic plague (which can also be transmitted by a number of other mammals, such cats, dogs, squirrels and native wood rats). Ironically, it is believed that the brown rat’s displacement of the black rat – the rat species technically responsible for the “Black Death” in 14th century Europe – actually led to the decline of the plague there.
If eating and pooping in our food stores wasn’t enough, the brown rat can also cause property damage due to its proclivity for gnawing on everything; power cables, irrigation lines, and all manner of wooden/plastic objects are all fair game for the restless brown rat. Likewise, the species tendency to burrow around homes can lead to problems where rats infiltrate walls, roofs or other structures.
Controlling Rats With an Air Rifle
Given their incredible reproductive rates and largely nocturnal behavior, an air rifle is definitely not the first or most effective line of defense when dealing with a rat infestation, and it is most critical to ensure that all nearby sources of food (such as granaries, waste receptacles, animal feed, etc.) are removed or secured. However, for dealing with individual rats that have established a pattern of behavior that allows an open shot, a good pellet rifle can provide targeted eradication without the need for indiscriminate poisons that can harm native wildlife or pets.
Choosing a Pellet Rifle for Eradicating Rats
Because rats are typically engaged at close range (within 10 yards typically), all of the hunting air rifles featured on this site, and some of the more powerful pellet guns, should do the job. However, due to the brown rat’s extreme toughness, we strongly encourage you to opt for a .22 over a .177 caliber model. It’s not that a .177 can’t kill rats – they can – but the .22 has greater stopping power (as we’ve discussed before) and can put them down more convincingly. For example, while it can also happen with a .22, it is very common for an adult rat to be shot clean through with a .177 caliber pellet – and still manage to run back to the safety of a burrow! If you must use a .177 bore gun, do yourself a favor and use soft, hollow-point or wadcutter-type pellets to maximize impact.
Keep in mind, however, that regardless how much of a scourge rats may be to humans, they like any pest species deserves to be put down humanely. This means that if you don’t have a clear shot, or are too far away to reliably hit a rat in the head region for a one-shot kill, wait until a better opportunity presents itself.
How & Where to Hunt Rats
The biggest challenge when hunting rats with a pellet rifle is lighting. As nocturnal animals, they are difficult to target during most of their active period (unless you can afford night vision optics like this guy!). However, brown rats typically begin moving in earnest at dusk (which technically makes them “crepuscular”), when bright optics (or open sight shooting) can provide a good, albeit limited window of shooting opportunity.
The promise of food will get rats out in daytime.
In many cases, rats may emerge during broad daylight too. As usual, this normally revolves around food; bird feeders, left over dog/cat food and other items will often get rats out in the open and used to moving about during daylight hours. I personally recall a rat that came out promptly from underneath a doghouse (where it constructed a tunnel) to steal a bit of my dog’s food, every day and roughly at the same time – in broad daylight. As you can guess, this only went on for so long.
Yet, before the sun begins to set, do a careful recon of the affected area beforehand. Get a sense of where rats are coming from and are likely to be engaged. Obviously, food sources/dump sites/feed lots etc. will be the main destination of the local rat population, so start from there. But don’t forget routes between these food sources and nesting areas, which can be in/around drainage ditches, creek beds/banks, walls, along power lines, fence lines, woodpiles, hedgerows, and virtually any other natural/man-made feature that provides cover.
Rats are creatures of habit, and will typically avoid new objects in their environment and use the same routes to go from point A to B. Intercepting rats along these routes can be highly effective. Likewise, look for signs of burrowing/droppings around things like sheds, doghouses, foundations, etc., as these provide ideal opportunities for rats to build tunnels or temporary refuges between food stores. In many cases, with a bit of patience, you may be able to get clear shots as they emerge from or move around these structures.
As usual, above all, remember to shoot safely. Be certain that your shot will not carry and result in harm to people or unintended pets/wildlife, and remember to check with local rules and ordinances before undertaking any eradication effort, since these local rules often dictate how/if a firearm of any kind may be fired within city limits.
Below is video showing some very good air rifle shooting. Note that only clear head shots are taken.
Please don’t watch if you are uncomfortable with this method of extermination.
Air rifles are perfect for getting rid of unwanted vermin around your property, and among the pest species that most often drive people to purchase an air rifle for this purpose is the Common or European starling (Sturnus vulgaris).
Despite being so unpopular, this is a seemingly innocuous, roughly 8-9 inch long bird belonging to the “song bird” family Passeriformes. But it’s not individually that they are the problem.
Originally native to Eurasia, the starling has been introduced all over the world and is now widespread throughout the northern hemisphere, where it is widely considered to be a public nuisance, major threat to native hole-nesting birds, and costly agricultural pest.
But before you go grabbing your airgun, let’s take a moment to “know thy enemy.”
Identification & Superficial Characteristics
Unlike some non-native sparrows, identifying this species is easy.
Adults sport characteristic iridescent black plumage that becomes flecked with white, especially during winter. Juveniles are by comparison a uniform grayish brown. The adults’ beak color changes during the year; it starts as yellowish in summer and fades to a darker grey/black in winter.
Although there are many subtle differences between them, the sexes can be distinguished most reliably by their eye color; the irises of males are a deep brownish, while those of the females are comparatively lighter, almost grayish.
General Biology
Social Behavior
Starlings are a gregarious bunch, and typically roost in large noisy groups. This communal behavior is believed to function as a defense against attack by natural avian predators, such as various hawks and falcon species. Likewise, when taking flight in response to an aerial threat, the flock moves together in a tight mass that seems to pulse and change direction randomly, much like a shoal of fleeing bait fish.
Flock sizes vary, with some of the largest witnessed in Denmark, where over a million birds may congregate in spring. Huge flocks of up to 50 thousand birds are also common in the UK during sunset in winter. The sight of so many starlings in flight is so spectacular that there is a specific name for it: they are called “murmurations.”
Watch below as a peregrine falcon repeatedly dive-bombs one such elusive murmuration in Torino, Italy.
Nesting & Reproduction
Starlings construct nests in cavities within trees, stumps or in man-made structures, such as walls, buildings and bird houses.
The male prepares a fairly “messy” nest that seems to require some vegetation and the addition of herb/decorative material as an attractant to entice a female.
After copulation, the female typically deposits 4 or 5 eggs that require approximately two weeks of incubation before hatching. A pair may breed twice between the spring and summer months if conditions are favorable and/or if the first clutch fails for some reason.
Once hatched, the young remain in the nest for another three weeks before venturing out.
Diet & Foraging Behavior
Starlings are most fond of small invertebrates, but also consume seeds and fruit when available. They are often seen probing the ground in search of food in open, closely-cropped grassland areas, including cattle grazing lands, where they may forage in large flocks on the ground and sometimes on the back of cattle.
Preferred Habitats
Common starlings are strongly associated with urban or suburban settings that afford abundant nesting and roosting areas, particularly where these are coincide with grasslands, farmlands, cattle pastures, sports fields or anywhere else grasses are closely-cropped. They are rarely found in densely wooded environs.
They are extremely versatile in terms of elevation preference, and can thrive along coastal areas and inland up to 6,200 feet in elevation.
Origin & Current Distribution
Distribution of Common Starling (hover over image for color key)
While the common starling and its various subspecies are native to Europe and western Asia, the species has been introduced to many locales, most often with the intent to combat some agricultural insect pest.
In North America, however, their introduction was motivated by a far less practical reason. In 1890, 60 birds were released in New York’s Central Park at the behest of the “American Acclimatization Society,” which endeavored to introduce all of the birds referenced in William Shakespeare’s plays to the United States. These 60 birds, released by ignorant, overzealous literary historians, are now responsible for a growing population estimated to consist of 150 million birds, roughly half of all of the starlings alive on earth.
As we discuss below, North America has suffered greatly from the Society’s misplaced romanticism, and has caused the US government to spend approximately $1.7 million in eradication efforts in 2008 alone.
Impacts & Threats From the Common Starling
So what’s the big deal? Why be concerned about starlings at all?
Displacement of Native Species
The starling’s preference for using just about any type of nest cavity impacts native species through direct competition for nest holes. This is an issue just about everywhere they have been introduced, with many native North American species affected; these include woodpeckers, martins, swallows, chickadees and nuthatches, to name a few.
Indeed, the starling’s reputation for ousting native birds and its extremely adaptable nature has awarded it an infamous spot on the IUCN’s List of the world’s top 100 worst invasive species.
Agricultural Losses
Beyond threatening native birds, the starling is also responsible for heavy economic losses. Their ubiquity and omnivorous nature makes them a scourge in various agricultural settings.
Starlings impact commercial fruit and vegetable production by eating products directly, or consuming/uprooting newly-planted seeds or seedlings. In addition, their foraging around livestock areas and spread of seed-laden droppings are believed to facilitate the spread of noxious weeds, which indirectly compromises the efficacy of agricultural practices.
Overall, the starling is blamed for economic losses in the US totaling approximately $800 million annually.
Public Health & Property Damage
The sheer number of these birds can create a variety of threats and problems, particularly in areas that provide optimum foraging and nesting habitats.
The large amount of droppings left by flocks present a safety issue because they are capable of harboring a variety of infectious diseases, the most notable of which being the pathogenic fungus Histoplasma capsulatum, the cause of histoplasmosis in humans.
Another safety concern is with respect to air travel. While just about any bird can potentially be sucked into an airliner’s engine, the large numbers of starlings in some flocks can be particularly dangerous. Think this is far-fetched? In 1960, one of the most disastrous mid-air strikes occurred; 62 people died when a turbo-prop plane passed through a flock of starlings and ultimately crashed into the ocean off of the coast of Boston, Massachusetts.
Finally, the presence of large, roosting colonies can create substantial noise disturbance in urban areas, along with noxious odors from the collective effect of hundreds or thousands of birds’ feces. The accumulation of large amounts of droppings can also cause substantial aesthetic damage to dwellings and other property that may be costly to repair, even if such roosting behavior is temporary and the property owner is successful in encouraging the flock to congregate elsewhere.
Controlling Starlings with an Air Rifle
Although they are a migratory species, due to their noxious, invasive nature, starlings are exempted from the protective ambit of the Migratory Bird Treaty Act, which otherwise levies stiff penalties for the taking or killing of migratory birds. Consequently, if otherwise following all other applicable state and local rules and regulations, a private land owner may take starlings at any time of the year without a permit.
Why Use an Air Rifle?
An air rifle makes an ideal weapon to combat starlings that congregate around the home.
Unlike using poisons or traps, which can inadvertently harm native species, an air rifle can kill with precision and no collateral damage to native wildlife. Further, unlike conventional firearms, a pellet rifle has the added benefits of generating less noise and having a much more limited projectile range, which greatly minimizes the potential for dangerous stray shots. As always, even when using an airgun, make sure that you can shoot safely and that you are complying with all applicable rules and regulations within your jurisdiction.
Choosing a Pellet Rifle for Starling Eradication
As far as which type of air rifle to use, all of the hunting air rifles mentioned on this site will do the job well, and our best-value picks (in our opinion) provide the highest level of quality and performance for the money. But whatever you do, do not use a BB gun. These are often highly inaccurate and are more likely to injure a bird, rather than kill it. Even though starlings may be pests – just like any small game animal – they at the very least deserve to be put down quickly and humanely.
Having said that, here are some things to consider when shopping for an air rifle:
Power Plant / Cocking Effort. More important than the brand of the rifle is user preference and convenience. For example, if you are a female, younger or very slightly-built user, a good multi-pump pneumatic pellet rifle may be preferable over a powerful spring or gas-piston rifle that may be difficult to cock. Likewise, if you have large numbers of birds on your property and want something that affords repeat/faster shooting, then PCP or certain elite CO2 rifles, such as very powerful the Hammerli 850 AirMagnum, may be worth considering.
Which Air Rifle Caliber? If you are using the air rifle to take primarily starlings and other small non-native bird pests, you don’t need much “stopping power” and a .177 caliber rifle is just as effective as a .22 model. In fact, to the extent you are looking for easier, longer-range shooting, the .177 may be a better choice, especially for relatively inexperienced shooters, due to its relatively flatter flight trajectory and less need for range finding. Just remember to use quality air rifle pellets and keep pellet velocities at or below 1000 fps to avoid breaking the sound barrier. If you don’t understand why this matters, make sure to review our general buying guide and article on air rifle hunting for some basic tips and information.
Pellet Type. Any pellet that you can consistently shoot accurately is a good choice. However, depending on your rifle’s power and caliber, you may want to opt for one type over another. To get a better idea of your options, check out our general information article on selecting pellets.
Do You Need a Scope? The open sights on most quality air rifles are probably sufficient for shooting at closer ranges, but when you start engaging starlings at much beyond 25 yards, your results will be greatly aided by the assistance of a quality air rifle scope (if you are not already buying a good “combo” with a scope included). Scopes in general can be a confusing subject, so we created a detailed introductory guide to put you in the right direction before buying.
Where to Hunt Starlings?
Starlings can often be encountered foraging out in the open, and may be taken as they attempt to make use of nest-holes or as they harass or try to oust native birds from existing nesting cavities.
And while you are unlikely to get off a second shot in a flock situation as they startle easily, the noise and disturbance created by an air rifle is likely to help discourage frequent use of your property, which is the whole point after all.
Again, as we’ve said before, obey all applicable laws and common sense, and always be conservative with your shots when possible.
Finally, don’t get cocky: taking game at great distances may boost your ego, but attempting to do so is more often than not likely to result in a miss or merely wounding a bird, which in turn causes needles suffering.
We strongly suggest that you only take shots at distances where you are able to consistently achieve a 1″ group (or smaller) during target practice.
Air rifles are becoming increasingly popular among the survivalist crowd, and this interest is rightly deserved. No, of course an air rifle cannot match the power or reach of a conventional firearm, but that’s missing the point.
A decent pellet rifle can make an outstanding addition to your “SHTF” kit precisely because they are an inexpensive and reliable way to bag small game – the kind you can likely rely on to feed yourself (and your family) in the event all hell breaks loose.
Why is an Air Rifle Useful for Survival?
Sure, some of you may live in rural areas that are teeming with deer or even wild pigs, and no one would argue that bagging prey of this size would be best to feed several people. But deer are not easy prey by any means, and for most people, especially in more urban areas, good luck finding them, or making kills regularly enough to survive on even if they are present in good numbers.
The kind of small game I’m talking about is the type that you can find virtually anywhere – small birds, squirrels, rabbits and the like. And for these animals, a good air rifle makes an outstanding, ultra-low maintenance weapon. I don’t know about you, but I’d prefer to routinely dine on quail, pigeon or squirrel, rather than go several lean weeks trying to bag a deer.
Moreover, if you’ve ever bought just about any type of conventional firearm ammo, you know it’s not cheap and can be heavy if carrying it in bulk. How much ammo can you carry necessary to survive one or two years?
Compare this with a coffee tin full of pellets that will likely cost you less than $50 and last for years with conservative shooting. Add to that the much lighter weight of an air rifle (which typically range between 5 and 10 lbs un-scoped) and the decision is obvious, especially if you plan on needing to remain foot-mobile after doomsday.
So What’s the Model for Survival?
So, assuming you see the benefits of using a pellet rifle for survival, the question becomes – which model is best?
The truth is that many different types of air rifles, including very modestly-priced options, can be excellent for close-range (generally within 35 yards) small game hunting when used by a shooter armed with a bit of practice. However, there are some key things to keep in mind when choosing among the various models available.
Stick With .22 or Larger Caliber Air Rifles
There’s no question that you could take small game with a .177 caliber rifle, but as we explain in this article on air rifle hunting, a .22 pellet (or .20 or .25 cal.) rifle better harnesses a rifle’s power and transmits much more power to the target, making it superior for hunting any type of furred game. Fortunately, .22 caliber rifles and ammo are nearly as common/inexpensive as those for .177 models.
Stay Away From CO2
While the Hammerli 850 is one of the few CO2 air rifles that has plenty of power, like other CO2 models, the cartridges that carry the compressed gas are likely to be hard to come by if law & order fall apart. Moreover, how many CO2 cartridges can one carry on their person? The need for purchasing the fuel supply therefore effectively eliminates CO2 type rifles from the survivalist’s arsenal.
Be Careful With High-Powered PCP Air Rifles
There’s no question that the Benjamin Marauder is one of the hottest hunting air rifles around, and one of our favorites. But this, and many other powerful PCP rifles, really need an external source of compressed air if used routinely, such as a scuba tank (a deal breaker for us). On the other hand, there are some PCP models that are outstanding yet can be more feasibly charged with a small hand pump – like the Benjamin Discovery.
Consider Spring/Gas Piston and Pneumatic Air Rifles
These are among the best air rifles for survival, for several reasons.
First, these rifles tend to be among the least expensive while still delivering great power. For example, one of our favorite pneumatics (i.e., “pump” air rifle) is the Benjamin 392 Bolt Action air rifle. The Benjamin 392 is an extremely accurate and incredibly durable pellet rifle that in the .22 delivers more than enough power (about 15 foot-pounds of muzzle energy, well over the minimum 12 FPE we recommend for game hunting) to hunt virtually all types of small game. In addition, the pump-type charging aspect gives you the freedom to vary the power, which is great so you don’t over-penetrate game at close ranges. Also, as with most pneumatics, these do not suffer any appreciable recoil, so even inexperienced shooters can be making consistent kills with just an afternoon’s practice.
Second, they are not terribly complicated and comparatively immune to failure. A good example of a simple spring-piston (“springers” as they are affectionately referred to) that has got a bulletproof reputation for outstanding power, insane accuracy and legendary longevity among veteran shooters is the Diana RWS 34, which also happens to be our pick for the best air rifle under $300. If you are on somewhat of a budget but still want top-shelf quality in your rifle, this is clearly the best of the best in our book. If you’ve got more money to spend and what even more power and quality, the RWS 54 Air King is an easy choice.
Third, piston/pneumatic rifles don’t need cartridges or charging with external compressed gas sources. On this note, you should be aware that there is a relatively new twist on the traditional spring piston powerplant you might consider. These new types use a sealed volume of nitrogen gas instead of a metal spring. Like a real spring, cocking the gun compresses the nitrogen, which then expands to eject the pellet as the trigger is pulled. As we’ve laid out elsewhere, these gas piston rifles (a.k.a “gas rams”) offer all of the benefits of springers but are easier to cock, tend to fire more smoothly, and don’t suffer from spring fatigue – which can happen when a springer is left cocked for periods of time – and which may eventually cause the spring to lose some of its explosive force. Because nitrogen is relatively temperature insensitive, these rifles also tend to maintain their peak power better in colder weather than spring rifles. A couple examples of excellent gas piston air rifles for Armageddon are the Gamo Silent Stalker Whisper IGT and the .25 caliber Crosman Benjamin Trail NP XL 725.
Buy Good Quality Pellets & Consider a Decent Scope
While many who intend to use their air rifle for close-range hunting (within 30 yards or so) may not need one, a quality air rifle scope can really take your marksmanship to a different level, which can be vital if using your rifle during a real survival situation. You can learn all about air rifle scopes here, and then compare various top-rated scopes.
Yet even more important than getting a scope is simply buying good air rifle pellets. Even the best air rifles may struggle to accurately fire cheap pellets, and anyone who knows anything about air rifles will tell you that matching the right pellet to your gun and intended shooting is absolutely critical for achieving accuracy. To learn about the different types of air rifle pellets and what they’re used for, read our article “Air Rifle Pellets Explained,” which will help you then choose among the best-rated air rifle pellets available.
Practice, Practice, Practice!
Once you’ve purchased a pellet rifle and picked up some good pellets, it’s then simply a matter of practicing with targets and (if you have one) zeroing in your scope so that you are making consistently accurate shots.
As we’ve explained before, air rifle hunting can be extremely rewarding, but to make humane kills one must get used to the very small “kill zones” that apply here. Ideally, you will want to start hunting live game only when you can reliably hit your targets (at the appropriate distances) such that most of your shots group within a one-inch diameter circular area. Begin shooting at closer ranges (under 25 yards), and only extend your range as your skills and knowledge of your weapon improves.
Of course, always be mindful of safety and understand your local laws/regulations as they pertain to air rifle ownership, target shooting and hunting. Good luck!
For many of us, me included, the main reason why we become interested in air rifles in the first place is to hunt small game or dispatch vermin close to home. And for these purposes most high-quality air rifles are excellent. Unlike conventional firearms, air rifles are relatively quiet, have little or no recoil, and because they have limited range, are much less likely to produce dangerous stray bullets that could impact nearby residential areas. In fact, even very powerful air rifles lose much or all of their punch after about 150-200 yards, whereas a .22 long-round rimfire shot can travel well over a mile and still hit with enough power to possibly kill.
This article primarily focuses on air rifle hunting for the type of small game most readily available air rifles are suited for – like birds, squirrels, rabbits, hares, woodchucks, etc. Of course, there are very large caliber air rifles, like .45 and .50 cal. big bores that can take down things like coyote, wild pigs and even deer, but these are fairly expensive PCP weapons and beyond the scope of this particular discussion.
Basic Power Requirements
As far as what constitutes a good small game hunting air rifle, there are really no hard and fast rules since there are so many different types of small animals that can be hunted, but there are some minimum power requirements that most hunters recognize and we agree with. The most fundamental of these is power, measured in foot-pounds-energy (“FPE”) at the muzzle. It’s pretty simple, an underpowered gun is more likely to maim or wound, rather than kill, either because the projectile doesn’t hit with enough force or cannot be controlled accurately. Obviously, this becomes an even more important consideration the further away you engage the target.
For instance, it is believed that an air rifle/gun should produce at least 12 FPE at the muzzle to kill efficiently and humanely for closer range hunting (i.e., within 35 yards or so). Fortunately, this is not a high bar to clear for most modern air rifles. For example, plug into the calculator below an 8-grain pellet traveling at 825 FPS – or a 14-grain pellet with a velocity of 625 FPS:[CP_CALCULATED_FIELDS id=”6″] you will see that the 12 FPE minimum muzzle energy requirement in is met in both cases.
Of course, 12 FPE is a minimum power requirement. Additional power is definitely warranted if you want to hunt at longer ranges, well beyond 35 yards for example, since more FPE will be needed to maintain a proper flight trajectory and ensure sufficient knock-down power remains by the time you reach your targets. For example, a rifle with 30 FPE should easily handle game at or beyond 50 yards, but take care not to push it. We always encourage shooters to hunt game at closer ranges, regardless how much power you have, since the further away you engage, the less likely you are to deliver a precise kill shot (a head shot is advised for most small game). Know your rifle’s limits – as well as your own. Even if you are eliminating pests, it is still bad form in our book to take a Hail Mary shot at any animal where you are more likely to wound rather than kill it.
Which Caliber is Best for Hunting?
Most people hunting small game and with limited budgets will be selecting among the small to mid sized pellet rifles – from .177 to .25 caliber. Again, hunting with .45 and .50 caliber air rifles is really a whole other “animal” and will not be covered here.
For many prospective small game air rifle hunters, you may need to choose between a .177 and .22, since many air rifles are available in either caliber. Both of these air rifles are suitable for pretty much any small game (e.g., birds, squirrels, cottontail and jackrabbits, rodents, etc.) especially at close ranges and provided the minimum 12 FPE is met. However, the consensus of air rifle hunters, especially here in the US, agrees that the .22 caliber is the rifle of choice for hunting furred animals. Hence the old saying: “.177 for feather, .22 for fur.” As a result, if you are pursuing more rabbits and squirrels than pigeons and starlings, the .22 is the better of the two, with the .20 caliber being a nice compromise for more mixed hunting.
Of course this .177 vs. .22 question is an old one and always stirs up considerable debate, so we’ll just briefly mention the rationale behind this. Mathematically speaking, the larger, heavier .22 pellet makes better use of the potential energy stored in the rifle’s compressed air, allowing it to eject with more FPE (despite a lower velocity) compared to a .177 pellet – even assuming that both were fired from the same exact gun and powerplant. In addition, besides coming out of the barrel with more FPE, the .22 pellet also retains more of its energy as it travels through the air due to its greater momentum and ballistics coefficient. The result is that more energy is delivered to the target with a .22 vs. the .177 – again, even assuming that these bullets were fired from the very same rifle. This is why that the .22 is a harder hitting pellet than the .20 cal, and that the .25 cal. is harder hitting than the .22, etc.
Beyond having more punch and carrying it’s energy payload further than the .177, .22 pellets also suffer much less from target “overpenetration.” Due to their faster velocities, .177 rifles can often shoot right through game, rather than transferring more of their energy to the animal’s tissues where it’s most needed to take them down. Of course, this can be mitigated to some extent by optimizing your pellet choice (e.g., using a hollow point or wedge cutter for close range hunting), and over-penetration is still a problem with .22 caliber rifles at close range too; it’s just that their slower velocities and larger pellets make this much less likely.
Don’t Forget About Accuracy
Having said all that, there is more to consider than simply hitting power, and that’s accuracy. If you can’t hit the target, then even the most powerful rifle isn’t going to help you. Further, if you are even slightly off of the small kill zones required for this type of game (generally a head shot in most cases), then you are likely to maim an animal, or allow it to flee where it may die slowly. And on the accuracy score, there is little question that .177 pellets have the flattest trajectories and therefore make accurateshooting the easiest. This is not to say you can’t be accurate with a .22 rifle, but it generally takes more time to get a feel for the relatively bowed flight path of these pellets – especially if you are shooting at some distance. The same holds true for the .25 caliber as well.
Concluding Thoughts
So, what’s all of this boil down to? In our opinion, if you plan on hunting birds and occasionally furred game, and want to be shooting with laser-like accuracy quickly and without much concern for range finding, the .177 is excellent. And if you want even more of a middle ground, go with the .20 caliber, that is if you can find one and don’t mind spending more on ammunition.
On the other hand, if you are fairly confident that you are going to be hunting a lot of squirrels and/or rabbits – and maybe a woodchuck here or there – then the .22 and .25 calibers make the better choices in our opinion and, with a bit more patience and skill, can be just as accurate as the .177. The only thing we’d caution here is that with these larger calibers a bit more FPE is advisable, since you are firing a much larger pellet. More power means higher velocities; and higher velocities mean a flatter trajectory and improved accuracy – this is one reason why the largest hunting calibers primarily use PCP systems. Imagine cocking a springer designed for a .50 cal?? Consequently, if the rifle you want to buy is borderline in terms of FPE, get it in the smaller bore.
Looking for the best hunting air rifle? It’s not surprising, since many people are interested primarily in hunting with air rifles – it’s what first drew me to them after all – but this begs the question: what is a hunting air rifle anyway? As we explain in more detail in our article on Air Rifle Hunting, hunting air rifles can come in anything between .117 and .50 calibers, with the larger-game rifles generally needing Pre-charged Pneumatic (“PCP”) power plants to propel their heavier, higher caliber ammo at sufficient velocities to maintain accuracy. However, if you aren’t looking to take down mule deer, then you’re in luck, since there are some excellent small game hunting air rifles available that provide tremendous quality and value. Here are just a few of our favorites.
Hatsan 95 Walnut Stock Air Rifle Combo
This is one of the more powerful, higher quality and better-looking hunting air rifles – especially for one under $200! We are of course talking about the Hatsan 95 Air Rifle Combo in Walnut Stock. This beauty comes in .177, .22 and .25 calibers and is extremely powerful in all three – although if you are shooting more squirrels, rabbits, woodchuck opossum and other furred game rather than birds, we say definitely go with the much harder-hitting .22 or 25 version.
And don’t be fooled by its seemingly modest FPS ratings of 1,000 FPS for the .177 and 650 FPS for the .25. As we have explained, many manufacturers inflate FPS by using lightweight alloy pellets that naturally fly much faster than standard lead pellets – i.e., the ones normally used for hunting. In contrast, the Hatsan 95’s FPS ratings are actually very conservative and are based on lead pellets. In fact, one user tested this rifle with a chronograph and found that it exceeded the manufacturer’s reported FPS. Overall, users reported that this rifle hits harder than other more expensive high-powered air models, including the Benjamin 392, Crosman Nitro Venom and Ruger Air Magnum. In addition to power, it’s pretty darn accurate with its throw-in scope and comes with a simply gorgeous walnut stock that we frankly cannot believe is included in a rifle at this price. Hardwoods of this quality, if used at all, are normally associated with much higher price tags.
With all of this performance and value, it’s no wonder that this rifle has earned an average user satisfaction rating of 4.4 out of 5.0 stars to date. In fact, users are so happy with this rifle that they easily overlook it’s drawbacks – it’s loud firing (which is typical of high powered spring-piston power plants) and the added “umph” needed to cock this powerful breakbarrel air rifle.
If you’ve got a bigger budget and want a first-rate hunting air rifle that will last a lifetime, then there are few that can surpass the legendary power, quality, reliability and accuracy of the Diana RWS 48 [read full RWS 48 review here], which comes in .177 and .22 calibers and is covered by a limited lifetime warranty. These are very powerful spring-piston sidelever rifles that can do pretty much anything from plinking and competitive target shooting to serious small game hunting. In fact, the RWS 48 is the rifle used by the U.S. field target club – so you know if you can’t hit your target it’s your fault!
As usual, if you are more of squirrel/rabbit hunter, go for the greater knock-down power of the .22 version.
The extraordinary level of German engineering on the RWS 48 is not only apparent in the attractive wood stock, but in the heft and balance of the gun, something you notice as soon as you pick it up. However, it’s when you fire this rifle that you really appreciate it’s raw power, which unfortunately does come with lots of noise. Also, this is not a rifle that can be cocked “easily” – which is another inevitable consequence of the RWS 48’s impressive muzzle energy.
Again, with its super high-quality, accuracy and power, the RWS 48 currently has a perfect 5-star following on Amazon.com. Indeed, if you read these reviews you will quickly get a sense of just how much this rifle is loved by it’s owners.
Crosman Benjamin Trail NP XL 725 .25 Caliber Nitro Piston
We would be remiss if we didn’t include at least one of the “nitro” gas-piston air rifles here, and theCrosman Benjamin Trail NP XL 725 is reportedly the most powerful breakbarrel gas-piston available. This claim is definitely difficult to debate given this model’s amazing 30 foot-pounds of muzzle energy, which can send an alloy .25 caliber pellet up to 800 feet per second. This kind of power behind such a large caliber really takes small game hunting to a different level – if you ever had issues with putting down squirrels, woodchucks, hares and other tougher small game quickly and consistently, you will absolutely love the “show-stopping” impact that this gas ram brings. Moreover, this is an extremely accurate rifle that just gets easier to dial in with time.
As we’ve discussed before, the use of a gas piston (nitrogen gas) has many benefits, which adds to this rifle’s allure. Among other things, this technology makes it relatively quiet, easier to cock, shoot with virtually no recoil, and deliver better cold-weather performance compared to a comparable spring rifle. And most importantly, gas piston rifles can be left in the cocked (readied) state pretty much indefinitely without any loss of power, whereas a spring-piston rifle that is held in the cocked position too long will gradually “set” in this state, which over time can diminish performance.
Overall, if you are an avid small game hunter and like the quieter, smoother and more worry-free performance of gas piston rifles but don’t want to sacrifice power, the Benjamin Trail NP XL 725 is very hard to beat.
Last but certainly not least is the Benjamin Marauder, a real beast that is in our view quite possibly the best and most affordable hunting PCP repeat-shooting air rifle going. It easily earned our nod as the Best Value PCP Air Rifle. This model comes in .177, .22 and .25 calibers and screams in each of them, producing muzzle velocities of 1,000, 1,000 and 900 FPS, respectively. With this kind of power, we suggest you go for the .22 or .25 calibers, as they will obviously take care of your typical small game and give you the extra impact power to easily put down larger critters, like big woodchuck, opossum, racoons, and (in the .25) even coyote! But beyond extreme power, this air rifle is extremely accurate, and has already obtained near legendary status for delivering some of the tightest groupings we’ve heard yet.
Finally, this rifle comes with a great hardwood finish, a very aggressive styling that we like, and nice touches, such a pressure gauge and degassing tool that lets you switch from CO2 (an alternative power source) to compressed gas. As with most PCP rifles, if you intend to do any regular shooting, we do suggest that you opt for a scuba tank or some similar compressed gas reservoir.